#Sequator stacking software manual#
#Sequator stacking software iso#

You really shouldn't expect to get images like you might see on astrobin (not that that's the be-all and end-all of astro image quality) but you can definitely get an image untracked, it's just a lot easier with modern sensors, fast optics, and/or tracking. Other than that, you'll just need to stack lots of photos. Just keep in mind that orion will show up very easily in your shots as it's so bright, but the loop not so much. So you should be able to get a framing you like with this setup. Most apsc sensors fit barnards loop in nicely at 50mm. You will just have to try it and see.Īs for framing, I just used the astro tools website to see what it would look like. If you were tracking and doing longer exposures I'd say use ISO400 or even lower but you'll get no benefit doing that here with untracked shots. Using the NPF rule, you could at 24mm shoot for around 6-12 seconds, and at 70mm around 2-4 seconds before trailing.įor ISO, going by the photons to photos website, I really can't see a reason for not trying ISO1600 to start with.

#Sequator stacking software manual#

I'd say set your camera in manual mode, and focus as best you can on a bright star. You say your lens is a 20-70mm although I can only see a 24-70mm f/2.8 in that range so assume you mean that. It will be a bit tricky but not impossible.

Would that just be the photo being shrunken down because enough data has been captured to allow cutting of the photo without reduction in quality as is typically the case? I've seen photos of Barnard's loop done on a 50 mm lens that look like they're really zoomed in as if they were done with a 150-300 mm lens. I tried photographing Orion once and it didn't have much detail but I'm not sure if that's only because it was a single capture and several hundred would improve it or if that's just the physical capability of the camera. I'm brand new to deep sky photography (typically do milky way photography capturing half the sky at once), and not having a telescope or tracker, as well as a 20 year old camera does not help me very much.

#Sequator stacking software iso#

How should I photograph it? I understand to do it high in the sky but what's the ideal setup for that camera? I'd assume logically to go to max zoom and take as long of exposures as are allowed before trailing starts (about 8 seconds on my lens f/4) and leave ISO around 1600 for several hundred to several thousand captures moving the camera to recenter the Orion nebula. Should I stack the stars first and leave the ground/people out, and then in a separate file stack the premade photo with the photo including the ground? My first attempt at it worked, but it was a single capture and the person was still partly transparent in the photo, my second attempt worked as well, but when I tried stacking it, the ground got messed up as mentioned above, and the people got faded more and more until they were just 95% transparent outlines in a dark photo, so I had to lower the photo count to bring them out more.

I've also tried including people in photos. I've been trying to capture the milky way and improve photos that include the ground in it, but as the milky way turns, sequator turns the ground with it even with freeze ground turned on, and you can see a more solid bit of ground on the bottom, and then faint curves of the ground both clockwise and counterclockwise. This question also applies to other targets. How can I get it near the horizon without constantly going out just around the set of Orion, getting a few photos, and going back? I'd like to have some ground in the photo, but taking a photo like that will require a lot of photos, several thousand by my guess. I'd like to capture barnard's loop, even if just as a faint glow on the photo. I don't have a tracking mount, and am working with a canon 20d with a 20-70mm lense.